A View to a Thrill

 Where do I start? There is so much to tell about Florence ( Firenze) which means flourishing or flowering.  I want to return to this beautiful city. The first time I visited there, I knew I wanted to return, and now, my second visit makes me want to return again. Florence is packed full of history, culture and art. Last year Ray and I watched, "Medici the Magnificent", a Netflix series of three years; a great series to watch before and after visiting Florence. It is about the Medici family dynasty and their influence on the culture and art of the city. It does get a bit gruesome at times as there are power struggles, and it is the Renaissance period so lots of sword fights and stabbings. The Medici family is well known for their patronage of the arts. They supported such artists as Botticelli, Michelangelo and Leonardo d' Vinci.  

Back to our trip. We woke up early to meet our guide, Leonardo, who would take us to the Academia Gallery of Florence and then to the Florence Duomo, also known as Santa Maria del Fiore. My goal was to walk to the top of the dome, 463 steps up narrow spiraling stairs. This huge, red tiled dome is the biggest brick and mortar dome in the world. They began building the cathedral in 13th century and about a hundred years later, when it was almost finished, the builders faced a major issue: a nearly 150 foot oval hole in the roof where the Florence Duomo was to be. The dome would be the largest ever built at that time, and  there was concern that it would collapse because no design had been perfected to hold such a large dome together. 

This is a picture of the whole Duomo. I got this from the internet because we were unable to get a picture from far away.

This is inside Florence Duomo. If you look closely you may see people below the round stained glass window right below the dome. I took a picture from there to show how high up we were before we began the last part of our climb to the top of the dome.

Looking up from the floor to the dome. If you can zoom in, check out the paintings. They are amazing. The frescoes depict the Last Judgement. This is when I was sad because my camera was in my carry on luggage that was still in the process of following us and had not caught up yet. 

A contest was held to get creative ideas on how to construct such a large dome. A goldsmith, Brunelleschi, presented a design of building a dome within a dome, and this is what they did. It took 16 years to construct and only three deaths were recorded of any workers. 

Looking down from the walkway under the round stained glass windows. Taken with my iPhone.

I know I am  getting bogged down in describing this dome. I promise to not write anymore facts about it. If you are interested, there is a lot of information on line that can answer any questions you may have. So, as I looked at the top of the dome from inside the cathedral, I wavered on whether I would be able to make it to the top. About half way up there is a walkway where I could see people walking, and they looked so small, not ant size, more like sparrow size. It was then that I thought that the climb would be gradual, winding around the dome. I convinced Ann (because we were both hesitant) that it would be a gentle climb. So we both headed for the door to the stairs. Leonardo convinced me that I would make it to the top and that it would be worth the climb.

Ray is getting a drink out of a water fountain before we began our climb.

Ann is getting a drink, too. I like how the camera caught the water drops. 

After about five minutes, Ann finally said to me. "I thought you said it was going to be gentle and a gradual incline?" I could barely answer her as I wanted to use the little breath I had to focus on this climb, a climb that felt almost straight up at times, with no places to stop and rest. " I think...pant, pant...I made a mistake," was all I could get out. I was having doubts. Could this 72 year old asthmatic woman make it to the top? I had remembered my inhaler, and also a handheld fan. The fan was a godsend. At one point, Ann pulled me into a small alcove that felt like air-conditioning. I gulped in the cool air and my heart settled down to a normal beat. 

This is a video that Ray took, looking down  from the walkway. We are about halfway up, or so, I lost track of how far we had been climbing.

Peeking out of the alcove, all I saw were more steps, and even though I wanted to stay in that tiny cool space, I trudged on. Poor Ray was worried about me, so I know I looked like a sweaty wheezing mess. Oh sh#t, I thought. I really don't want to have my picture taken when I get to the top. Why did I have to inherit the sweating genes? Even when I am not creeping up 463 steps I get red and sweaty from just normal exercise. Isn't that funny? The one thing I am concerned about when (at that time I was wondering IF) I got to the top, was how exhausted and red I would look! So I shoved that out of my mind and focused on each step. My legs were not tired at all, but my lungs were yelling at me.

I began the climb by counting the steps but lost count after 158 as I felt it more important to focus on breathing. It reminded me of hiking to Lake Solitaire in the Tetons, when I would think that this would be the last switchback on the trail, and then came upon another, and another and another. The difference was, that here I was confined in a dark, (there was some light, but not much) narrow spiraling stone staircase. I couldn't stop and look at the beauty of the mountains. My vision was grey stone steps that the builders used over 600 years ago. At this time the children's story, "The Little Engine that Could" clouded my mind with, "I think I can, I think I can...." as I slowly chugged up the steps.

At times along the climb there would be a window. Here is one where people have left locks.

Michael took this picture of me climbing the last steps. It felt like climbing a ladder but doesn't look as steep from this angle. My hair is soaking wet with sweat and the shirt I has washed out in the sink is soaking wet, too.

The climb became narrower and steeper but soon my weary, wet face saw a beam of light above my head. At this point, I climbed up a ladder and deposited myself on the platform at the top of the Duomo! The fresh air brought life back into my lungs and the view of the city was awesome. I was proud that I had reached the top but decided then that it would be a once in a lifetime trek for me. The walk down was not as easy as I thought because I was concerned about falling forward, so I hung on to the handrails (when there were handrails). 

Michael and Ann at the top of the Dome. Look how fresh and cool they look.

Ray and Jackie at the top of the Dome. Note, the red face and sweat plastered hair on me. But I am smiling and feeling great.

                                   Michael took a video from the top of the Duomo

The tours to the top are timed so that we did not meet people going the opposite direction. But we did come upon three people on their way up. One woman was wheezing and struggling, worse that I had. Her friends were on each side of her. When I got to her I stopped and said, "You are going to make it to the top. Take your time. Stop and rest. It will be worth it. I was in the same place as you on my way up and many times wondered if I would make it. Do not try to rush and you will get there."  She could only pant out "Thanks" and we both went our opposite directions. I was glad I was going down instead of up. Here are some more pictures from  the top of the dome.

When we finally got down, I stopped to light a candle for Rae. She would always do that when visiting cathedrals. Then we went out to find Stephanie and Bruce to have some lunch.

Lighting a candle for Rae

Bruce, Michael and Ann after lunch